Sumptuous French-style dress, France, Louis XV period, circa - Lot 98

Lot n° 98
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Estimation :
5000 - 8000 EUR
Result with fees
Result : 17 550EUR
Sumptuous French-style dress, France, Louis XV period, circa - Lot 98
Sumptuous French-style dress, France, Louis XV period, circa 1760-1765. Made from silk woven and painted in China around 1760 for the European market. Dress coat with Watteau pleats, pagoda sleeves with double flounce and buttoned front compères. Pleated falbalas and lace embellishments on the coat and full skirt worn on baskets. Fabric: thick white silk taffeta known as Gros de Tours, woven on a Tire loom in a wide width: 72 cm excluding the narrow 2 mm lemon-yellow selvedge. Elegant interlacing of flowering branches and berries in cameos of mauve, pink, green and lapis blue, hand-painted with grass juice and gouache on a white lead base. The outlines of the motifs are enhanced with silver powder applied with a fine brush. (Superb condition, with bright colors and silk that has retained all its crispness. A few yellowed micro-wrinkles on one side of the mantle). Details - flat : - 2 compère panels with small buttons in ivory braided silk passementerie, lined with ecru linen. - 2 trapezoidal sleeve pieces (30 x 17 x 30 cm) - 3 scalloped-cut engagement ruffles (one missing) - 2 small, narrow bouillonné ruffles, one in the gimp of the back and shoulder neckline, the other at the start of the engageante ruffle - 1 horizontal falbala for skirt bottom (16 x 120 cm) - A full dress underskirt, 290 cm wide, in 4 strips assembled 78 and 100 cm high. 3 cm inner silk hem braid. 3 fine brown fillets at head or tail of front panel weave. - 2 large bands for falbalas bouillonnés on the outer panels of the coat. - 2 strips of 74 x 161 and 163 cm to form the back and "Watteau" pleats of the coat. - 2 yokes on the right and left sides of the coat of different heights (163 cm from the shoulder and 120 cm from the waist). - 2 37 cm-wide front panels cut on the bias at the hips (130 cm at highest, 117 cm at lowest). The absence of traces of lining and needle-stitching on certain parts of the coat or skirt raises questions. Was this dress, in a state of rare freshness given the fragility inherent in the treatment of post-weaving ennobled silk, cut to order and over 70% made up, ever really worn by its young recipient? Related work: French dress made in London in painted silk from Guangdong, China, c.1760-at the V&A Museum (V&A T.593: 1 to 5-1999.
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